He preferred clawing himself along with his front legs, as it was obviosuly easier than working properly. However, Henry was a slightly older horse, and was also bone idle. Shame he couldnt repeat when we went to a competition, and just had tantrums instead. Hey presto, horse was suddenly working much better than he was before, and somehow managed to produce this amazing trot he had never done before. Until I went to a dressage instructor, she gave me a couple of exercises to do. I tried all sorts of exercises mentioned by people on here/in books - changes of rein, paces, trotting poles. He would pretty much do everything nice and balanced, but I could not get him going in a "real" outline. I had real problems with my old horse, Henry. which I am now stealing!ĭepends on the horse. Sometimes you need to put on the brakes a bit to control it' which is no way near as good as your explination. just now I say 'your horse is a Ferrari engine behind you and brakes at the front- but just because it can go 150mph doesn't mean it needs to all the time. Never pulling the head into position, just advising.Įmma S - that's a even better way of teaching it than me! I struggle to explain that. if the horse puts its head above / beyond the vertical, the hand should be stationary and firm (not HEAVY) enough to say 'No no, not there' but in the position to regain the elastic contact when the head is in the correct position. if the jaw is relaxed, the poll can relax, if the poll is relaxed the neck can relax then the back and shoulders can relax (theoretically!) so vibrations through the fingers to ask them to relax the jaw, ask them to stretch down to loosen the poll / neck - or neck FLEXIONS not head SHAKIING it's amazing the people who think they are riding flexions when really the horse is just moving it's head and is rigid at the poll!Ī consistent and elastic contact is key. Straight, horse must stay on its 'train tracks' - no dipping out through the shoulders, correct bend etc - lot's of circles, especially 10m ones for this. Horse must be off your leg to the slightest touch, moving of your leg and away from it (increase impulsion & yielding) I was taught not to shoot straight for an outline, but to be 'forward, straight and relaxed' and it would follow. In practice from what I can see, hands always moving, head only kept there by constant reminders from the hands. Head goes down.Ģ) Every time head comes back up, back and forth with the reins again, so in theory get head down with an almost non-existent contact. Obv with a trained horse you just ride forwards into a contact and they lower their head - my two do anyway! They will then follow the contact down to stretch, or collect/extend etc as a result of you altering how much there is.ġ) Niggle at the jaw with alternate reins back and forth, no steady contact needed. If it's too light, or hands unsteady, or too heavy, head will pop up again. Nudges with leg encourage horse to go forward and to lower the head.ģ) If they lock their jaw against you, little twiddles with the fingers to loosen the jaw, get them chewing and thus get the lowering and submission.Ĥ) Once head is down, keep a steady light contact. Contact needs to be such that if they lower their head onto the bit, it is comfortable and light (yet never a loop in the rein), if they raise their head it's stronger. They're adamant they're right, as that is what their instructors have said.ġ) Impulsion first, going forward in a rhythm.Ģ) Take a contact and ride forwards into it. I've been taught one way (which concurs with all the dressage books I've read), yet two friends have been taught another.
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